Track lighting, of course! Track lighting offers the opportunity to much better control the mood and emphasis of a room s lighting. With so many colors and styles, it is just as beautiful as it is functional.

If wiring through a junction box would tax your electrical skills past their limit, track lighting kits are available that simply plug in to the wall. They can t be beat for ease of installation, but they do not look as professional and unobtrusive as those that are actually mounted through the ceiling.

If you are ready for installation that is a little more challenging, follow these easy steps to mount track lighting and give Junior s pi ce de r sistance the attention it deserves!

Materials Needed

Drill / screwdriver

Electrical cable and tape

Ladder or stepstool

Long-nose or electrician s pliers

Neon tester / voltage meter

Tape measure

Toggle bolts

Track light kit

Wire nuts

1. Turn off the power. Turn off electrical power to appropriate junction box through the breaker box or service panel. Ensure that the circuit is dead with a neon tester or voltage meter. Once you are certain the power is off, remove the existing fixture and carefully disconnect wires, keeping exposed ends separate from each other.

2. Wire the live end. Put live end into the track and secure it by tightening the setscrew. Attach the live end to the mounting bracket.

Use pigtail leads to finish wiring the live end. Pigtail leads are short wires connected to terminals. Wire nuts are then used to connect the pigtail leads to the home wiring. Secure the black pigtail lead to the brass screw, the white pigtail to the silver screw, and the green (or bare) pigtail to the green grounding screw.

3. Lay out the track location. Decide on track location based on the existing junction box and which areas you d like the lights to bring focus to. You can purchase fittings for Ts or angles; but double check that the fittings you want are offered by the manufacturer of your chosen track light system.

Mark mounting holes to indicate position. Ensure the track runs parallel to a wall by measuring out an equal distance from the wall to either end of the track. Remember to place tracks an appropriate distance (at least 6″) from potentially flammable materials. On the marked places, drill holes for toggle bolts or screws.

4. Mount the track. Place circuit and fixture wires in junction box and install the mounting plate on the box. Snap the track into place on the junction box by following instructions provided for your specific track lighting system.

Put toggle bolts/screws through new track mounting and lift the track to the ceiling. (Recruit helpers beforehand if the track if very heavy or unwieldy.) Into the mounting holes, insert toggle wings but do not tighten. Attach any fittings (Ts or angles) and additional track sections desired, and insert end pieces at the end of the completed track.

Insert the electrical adapter into the track and twist to attach it. Install the cover over the mounting plate assembly and adapter. Place fixtures into the track and twist to secure.

Screw in appropriate bulbs as recommended by the manufacturer.

Make connections to house wiring. Twist wire connectors onto the matching colored house and pigtail wires to lock them together. Secure the mounting plate to the ceiling box with the screws provided. Tighten toggle bolts/screws.

Apply the finishing touches. Turn the power back on and test the lights. If they fail, turn off and double check the current with a neon tester or voltage meter. Also check your work for missing connections.

Once power has been restored, adjust head angle and position to shine light where you want it. For added versatility, consider purchasing a dimmer to make subtle changes in the strength of the lighting. Relax and enjoy your next dinner party when Junior s masterpiece is lavishly complimented, thanks to the superior showcasing.

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However, moving the laundry room away from the basement has created a major fire safety issue, and there are some other very important issues to consider. First we will discuss some of the important safety and economic issues, then some ways remodeling your laundry room to make it look nicer.

In the old days, most people had their laundry room in the basement. As a result, their clothes dryer could vent outside a few feet away, which is the ideal scenario. Few people realize that their clothes dryer is a serious fire safety concern.

According to the US Consumer Product Safety Commission, there are an estimated annual 15,500 fires, 10 deaths and 10 injuries associated with the clothes dryer. Moving the laundry room away from the basement has significantly increased this risk, because it requires the venting to be longer and sometimes have more bends. This increases the chance of lint buildup, dryer overheating and fires.

Washing machine hoses failures are another major consideration. According to State Farm, washing machine hose failures cause $170 million in damages to homes in the US & Canada each year.

The third consideration is whether or not you have a septic system. If you do, you will want to install a washing machine lint filter, as lint from septic systems is a leading cause of septic system failure.

Now, for your organization and decorating tips:

1. Consider placing the laundry room near the largest source of dirty clothes. This is probably the master bedroom. A door leading from the laundry room to the master closet/dressing room is a major convenience.

2. Replace decorating your walls with bright colors.

3. Replace laminate counters with granite or other hard surface materials.

4. Add custom or high-end cabinets that provide more storage space.

5. Add closets that hide appliances when not in use.

6. Add more surface area for folding, ironing and folding clothes.

7. Updated flooring options include vinyl or tile that coordinates with wall colors.

8. Placing insulation in the walls and floor of the laundry room will help reduce noise and vibrations in the adjoining rooms.

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Though they knew they wanted to screen the existing back patio — a square of concrete tucked under a roof overhang — complications arose. The porch needed to blend in with the existing house and still withstand the local insects, high humidity, and scorching summer temperatures. The concrete slab had a slight drop for rain runoff, so the homeowners had to trim the inside of the frame to fit that slope.

Heres a step-by-step of what they did:

1. Cut the paneling. Pre-primed 4×8-foot sheets of beadboard ceiling paneling are cut to fit.

2. Install the ceiling panels and fan. A nail gun makes quick work of installing ceiling panels and is easier than holding a panel while swinging a hammer. Before all of the paneling is installed, the ceiling is wired for a fan and light. The fan enables the homeowners to keep their porch 8 to 10 degrees cooler than the outdoors, while the light allows the porch to be used at night. One person held the fan while the other connected the wires then screwed the fan into place. The ceiling’s finish trim hides the seams in the paneling.

3. Frame the porch. The 2×4 frame of the homeowners’ porch was sized to fit the standard-width screens that were installed later. Crosspieces can be either nailed directly through the vertical braces or toenailed in place.

4. Attach interior paneling. A staple gun secures the interior pine-and-plywood beadboard paneling. Though the panels are level across the top, they had to be trimmed at the bottom to follow the uneven concrete floor, which slopes to accommodate rain runoff.

5. Attach and level exterior paneling. The hardboard exterior panels are added one at a time, from the bottom up. The builders custom-cut the first one to follow the bumpy ground line. It took some practice tries to get the paint the same tone of pale yellow as the weathered version on the house. The weather-resistant exterior paint requires only a washing with soap and water to maintain its color.

6. Finish off the screen. Vinyl grids are screwed directly into the wooden frame. The screens attach to the channels in these grids, creating a stapleless installation for fiberglass or aluminum screens. Once the screens are rolled into the grid channels using a spline, excess screen is simply trimmed off. A mallet snaps the caps over the vinyl channels and locks the screens in place.

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Creating Your Budget

The first step is to research costs by making a list of prices of the products you plan to install and/or purchase. You can get the sample prices by looking on the Internet, or by contacting:

kitchen and bathroom showrooms
home improvement retailers
appliance stores

If youre unsure of which products you might ultimately choose, write down the range of prices for those items.

Ask contractors for bids on the project based on your selection of products and finishes. Examine the bids to ensure they include enough details on items that can affect the cost. There should be a list of all the functional components — framing material, drywall, and plumbing and electrical systems, and details on what type of fixtures and appliances will be included.

Remodeling budgets fall into three general categories:

mechanical (electrical, plumbing and heating)
labor
materials

Each category typically accounts for 25 to 35 percent of the total budget. You also should set aside 10 to 20 percent of the total budget to cover unexpected construction costs, price increases for materials and project changes.

Once the bids are in place, then review your financial picture. Look at your finances for the past year to see if you had enough cash flow to meet expenses. If you are considering taking out a loan, can you make the payments without cutting into your routine expenses?

Staying On Your Budget

Once the project begins, keep track of budget changes and decide whether you will increase the total cost of the project or scale back on another area to stay within the budget. Consumers often exceed their budgets because they ask the contractor to add little projects that are outside of the bid estimate. Avoid using the words, While you are here, you may as well….

What are other ways to stay within your budget?

avoid the temptation to add small details to the project
do some of the work yourself, if you have the skills
divide the project into phases to spread out the cost over six months to a year.

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The quest for the mythical updated look of magazine lore has long tempted both owners and architects to graft trendy additions onto older homes just to make them ever-so-briefly fashionable again.

Alas, you need only to leaf through a 20-year-old copy of Better Homes and Gardens to see how such updates have stood the test of time. Most would elicit groans, if not laughter. The lesson is simple: Given the ever-shifting sands of architectural taste, the only kind of addition that’ll be permanently in fashion is one that respects the original architecture.

But how to do this? It goes without saying that the overall proportions of any new addition — wall heights, window styles and sizes, and the roof style and finish — should keep with the original building.

Beyond these basics, however, the real trick is to identify and repeat the designer’s signature details. By going through these characteristic traits — every house, new or old, has a whole raft of them — you can pretty much make any addition look spot-on original.

Typical candidates include:

— Porch railings and columns
— Window muntins
— Roof edges
— Attic vents

Last, if you have trouble coming up with a detail that has no direct precedent on the existing building, ask yourself: What would the original designer have done? Would he have used paired French doors or a sleek aluminum slider? Would he make the chimney skinny, stout or asymmetrical?

In short, what would his own signature detail have been? With the original designer guiding you, your addition can’t help but fit.

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Taking the time to research and choose the right contractor can easily save you hundreds, if not thousands, of dollars and countless headaches. Here are some guidelines to remember:

Always get at least 3 estimates on any project. You’ll be surprised at how two contractors can bid the same project for completely different prices. Be sure they are drafting the proposal on the same scope and quality of work. Remember to “compare apples to apples, and oranges to oranges.”

Ask to SEE a copy of the contractors license and certificate of insurance. Most states require a contractor to carry worker’s compensation, property damage and personal liability insurance, but many contractors still don’t have it or have let their policy lapse. If they don’t have the necessary coverage, you could be held liable for an injured employee or damage to a neighbors home caused by the contractor.

Always investigate local references. Don’t be afraid to call them and ask specific questions like: “Were you satisfied with the work?” “Did they start and finish on time?” “Was there ample communication between the contractor and homeowner?” Often, a contractor will think he did a great job on project and use the customer as a reference, although the customer feels differently about the job.

Your home may be your most valuable financial asset. Thats why its important to be cautious when you hire someone to work on it. Home improvement and repair and maintenance contractors advertise in the Yellow Pages including our online version HelpPages.com, in newspapers, and on the radio and TV.

However, dont consider any ad an indication of the quality of a contractors work. Your best bet is a reality check from those in the know: friends, neighbors, or co-workers who have had improvement work done. Get written estimates from several firms. Ask for explanations for price variations. Dont automatically choose the lowest bidder.

Most Importantly Ask yourself, “Do I feel comfortable working with this person for the duration of the project?” The key to a successful relationship with your contractor and a successful project is communication. If you don’t feel comfortable communicating with this person, it is likely that problems could arise.

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First you have to determine the style you’re striving for: contemporary, traditional or modern. Since you’re working in a combination of wood, tile or stone, and maybe Sheetrock and plaster, proceed only after you’ve done your homework. Your home may be traditional, so let’s use this style as our prototype, but many of these principles still apply if your home is modern or contemporary.

Look through shelter magazines that show homes similar in style to what you like to help you identify the details that will be useful in designing your own fireplace. After you have about 10 to 20 pictures, you will see a consistency in style.

Now you’re ready to apply what you’ve learned to design your own fireplace surround. Because this is a project that requires a variety of tools and exact measurements for the end result to be perfect, if your own skills at using a hammer and saw, cutting tile and spreading cement are somewhat limited, I strongly encourage you to work with a good contractor or handyman who can implement your design. Even the pre-made mantels require some carpentry to ensure stability and permanence.

Walk through your designs carefully with the person who will make it and make sure he or she understands the end result you want. Order all your materials and wait for them to be delivered to your home before you start the work so you don’t get stuck in the middle of the project while you’re waiting for something. Once you have everything, this project should take no more than a day or two to complete.

Now you’re ready to apply what you’ve learned to design your own fireplace surround. Because this is a project that requires a variety of tools and exact measurements for the end result to be perfect, if your own skills at using a hammer and saw, cutting tile and spreading cement are somewhat limited, I strongly encourage you to work with a good contractor or handyman who can implement your design. Even the pre-made mantels require some carpentry to ensure stability and permanence.

With this information in hand you should have enough to redesign your fireplace surround into a more appealing focal point for your home.

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Helps Individuals to Learn a Bit More About Their Home Improvement Projects

For many homeowners engaging in home improvement projects, this is the first time in their lives in which they have tried to tackle a project of that specific nature. For this reason, consulting a home improvement book may be the best way to learn more about the intended project that they are about to embark on. Many home improvement books will provide detailed instructions on how to go about performing a particular home improvement project covering the project from start to finish. This comes in handy for individuals who are about to partake in a home improvement project endeavor.

Provide Detailed Diagrams

Another wonderful reason for consulting a home improvement book when starting a home improvement project is for the explicit and detailed diagrams which many of these books may provide for the readers. As the authors of home improvement books know what their targeted audience is looking for, they will most likely provide diagrams for completing various home improvement projects as these are often necessary in order to get the job done properly.

Help to Provide a Timeline for the Completion of Projects

By looking at a home improvement book, the individual about start on their home improvement project may be able to get a better feel for how long the project is going to take to complete. Also, many of these home improvement books will provide timelines for each stage of the home improvement project which a homeowner will also find useful.

Home Improvement Books Supply Innovative Ideas

Lastly, by consulting a home improvement book, a homeowner about to embark on a home improvement project may also be able to get some great ideas for making their home improvement project results even that much more spectacular. Many home improvement books not only provide details about how to complete the project but also supply innovative and interesting ideas which the homeowner can use to add some extra flair to their finished product.

Consulting a home improvement book, both prior to and during a home improvement project, will enable the homeowner to accomplish many things. The informative contents of a home improvement book will help the homeowner to learn about their intended project, have access to diagrams, establish a timeline, and perhaps even come up with additional innovative ideas. For these reasons, consulting a home improvement book may be in the best interest of the individual looking to complete a home improvement project.

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Learn all about how and why doors and windows stick and how to fix them, so you re not stuck the next time opportunity pays a visit!

Stuck Windows

Windows can stick for a variety of reasons. Often wood expands and contracts, moving parts have been painted over, or two surfaces may simply seem fused together. Some of the most common problems and fixes for stuck windows are:

Painted-over joint: Cut the paint with a window zipper (tool designed just for this purpose) or a putty knife. Hold blade flat against the sash and push the edge into the joint while drawing the tool along the surface.

Paint build-up: Similar to when joints are painted over, years of painting can also result in an accumulation that causes excessive friction. Use a paint scraper to remove excess paint from the window stop, parting strip, and blind stop. Raise and lower the sash throughout the process. For a lower sash, it is also a possibility to remove the window stop to sand and scrape the edges facing the window. If none of the easier solutions were successful, remove both sashes and completely strip the paint to the bare wood. Repaint the sashes and reinstall when the pain has dried.

Too much friction: Lubricate the sash channels with candle wax or talcum powder. This can also prevent painted surfaces from sticking together. If spring metal weather-stripping is found in the sash channels, reduce tension by using a hammer and block of wood to flatten the strip.

Just plain stuck. A sharp rap to the center rail, near the lock can sometimes break a bond between painted surfaces. The blow can be administered with the palm of your hand or a rubber mallet. Another option is to gently tap a wooden block again the sides of the sash.

New friction channels. If you have some extra time on your hands and are very concerned with preventing heat loss, another option is to install new friction channels. To do this, first remove sashes, weights and pulleys.

Push fiberglass insulation into the openings for the weigh cavities. Start at the top and work your way down with the aid of a flexible rod or stick.

Using a hammer and sharp chisel, notch the ends of the top parting strip to create the new channels.

Replace the sashes in the window frame between the two new channels. Tilt the entire assembly into the opening from the bottom inside.

Finally, reinstall interior stops according to the manufacturer s instructions for adjusting tension. If windows are too loose after the stops have been installed, increase tension by hammering a wood block against the stop at nail placements. When the tension seems right to you, drive in several nails.

Stuck Doors

Doors can stick for many of the same reasons as windows too much tension, or painting over moving parts. However, with the addition of hinges, that also opens up a whole new area of possible reasons for stuck doors.

Door rubs against jamb. The solution to this problem differs according to which side the door is rubbing against the jamb on. If the door rubs against the jamb on the hinge side, you will need to shim the hinges out. Unscrew the hinge from the jamb and place a piece of cardboard behind it. Shimming out the bottom hinge may resolve the problem of a door binding at the top of the strike jamb.

If the door rubs against the jamb on the side without the hinge or against another part of the door frame, the door may need to be modified so it will fit. Mark the door with scribe lines so you know where to plane and remove the door (removing bottom pin first and working your way upward). Lay the door on a flat surface and plane the appropriate edges.

Loose hinge screws. To fix loose hinge screws, wedge the door open and remove the screws. Fold back the hinge, being careful not to lose any existing shims. Buy or whittle wood pieces to fit the holes. Add glue and push the wood pieces into the holes. Scrape the wood plugs until they are flush, fold the hinge back into place, drill pilot holes and drive in new screws.

Moving a stop. Sometimes it s easier to move the stop than unwarp a door. If a door is binding against the hinge-side stop or will not close properly because of an improperly placed stop on the latch side, pry off the offending stop. Close the door and draw a line, along the doors inside edge, on the jamb. Nail the stop on this line.

Moving a strike plate. A latch and strike may get out of alignment because a house had settled. If the strike plate is too far away, shim it out with cardboard. If it is too close, unscrew the strike, chisel out a new mortise, drill pilot holes, and replace the strike. If necessary, use wood putty to fill the old mortise hole and sand until smooth.

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The first thing you need to do is purchase the right fasteners for your picture and your walls. The most common fasteners for hanging things are picture nails and hooks. While these are the most common type of fastener, they are not the most appropriate or effective ones to use in all cases.

If you are going to hang anything on a concrete, stucco or brick wall, then you should not try to use a regular nail. A concrete screw will securely anchor your object and will prevent you from chipping the wall s surface. If you use a nail in a concrete or stucco surface, you can end up removing chunks of the wall around the nail when hammering.

If your object is heavy, then you might want to insert a plastic anchor or molly bolt-for fastening into the hole to ensure that there is no damage to your wall. Make sure that you are using the right type of fastener for your wall surface.

Once you ve figured out the type of wall surface and the most appropriate fastener to use, you will need to decide on placement.

The first thing you want to decide is how high you want to hang the object. The basic rule of thumb is to hang pictures so that the center of the picture is at eye level. Have someone hold a tape measure against the wall and then stand back and see what number is at your eye level that s where the center of your picture should be.

Once you decide on the height on the wall, you need to measure the picture itself to determine the mounting height. You will then measure from the bottom of the picture to the highest point of the hanging wire. You can then figure out the hanging height by subtracting half of the picture s height and adding the difference of the eye-height level you measured before.

Your measuring isn t done yet though. You want to take that figure and measure that distance on the wall so you can make a mark where the bottom of the hook will hit. After you have that vertical mark, you want to measure horizontally to ensure that your picture is in the center of the space. Next you will mark where the vertical and horizontal lines cross.

Holding the faster in place, you will nail or screw the fastener into the wall. After the nail or screw is in place, you want to carefully hang the object on the wall. Make sure you are careful not to mark or scrape the wall with the frame.

Once the picture is on the hook, you should step back to see whether it is level. You can shift the picture to either the left or the right to adjust the level.

If you find (after hanging) that the picture is either too low or too high, you can adjust the wire on the back of the picture rather than making a new hole.

If you are planning on hanging multiple pictures and/or objects on one wall, then you want to plan out your measurements very carefully. Start by holding up your pictures or laying them on the floor in the pattern you want. Measure the wall space and measure each picture to ensure that you have enough space. You want to make the vertical and horizontal marks for each picture rather than just guessing. It is often easier to offset the pictures when you estimate. If you do want all of the pictures even, then you need to use a level and be really exact in your measurements. A laser level can be useful in these types of situations.

Don t be intimidated with all of these steps if this is your first time hanging a picture. Taking your time and doing all the prep work outlined above will ensure that your picture is centered, level, and really adds character to your space.

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One excellent use for wood molding is as door trim. There are a number of different door trim styles in wood molding, and any of them would make an excellent choice for the room you are attempting to finish. In many homes, the molding simply meets with mitered corners. However, for a slightly more decorative look, simple wood blocks can be installed in the corners.

Another use for wood molding is as a baseboard. Baseboards need to be durable. The whole point of a baseboard is wall protection, and you simply cannot get the protection you need with synthetic materials. Wood molding will provide the durability and beauty your baseboards need to have. With wood molding, clean up is a snap should someone’s stray shoe catch the baseboard.

A third use for wood molding is as window casing. Because windows, like doors, need some type of framing to cover the seams in the walls, wood molding is a classic choice. Like with the door trim, window casing corners are typically mitered, but wood molding offers more decorative choices to spice up your window environment.

An additional use for wood molding is as a chair rail. When people sit in your dining room and leave the table, the backs of their chairs probably touch the wall. While this is not always a problem for homeowners, in homes where the dining room is used frequently, or children are present, this constant contact with the wall can become very damaging. Wood molding can not only cover current damage, it can also prevent the damage from occurring again. The strength of the material will prevent problems like scratches and dents from occurring in your dining room area.

A fifth use for wood molding is as crown molding. Crown molding tops the walls next to the ceiling. It is thought that this type of molding makes the transition from the wall to the ceiling a bit smoother and easier. Wood is a perfect choice for this area because with so many options, you can create the distinct look you love.

Another use for wood moldings is as a handrail on your stair ways. Hand rails provide both security and beauty to your stairs. It can be difficult to go down the stairs without stumbling in the middle of the night to answer a late night doorbell. Having a hand rail in place makes this easier and safer. Having a wood handrail in place makes this trip a little smoother. The durability and look of a wood molding handrail will do much to increase your confidence when Grandma leans so heavily on the rail just to get up the stairs to your guest bedroom.

A seventh use for wood moldings is as a base shoe. Base shoes trim flooring materials and conceal differences between the floor and the baseboard. Wood is a great choice here, because it tends to offer the best compatibility between the floor and the wall.

An eighth use for wood moldings is as a fireplace mantle. Wood stands up best to the heat of the area surrounding your fireplace, and Santa would rather look at nothing less than the beauty of wood as he is filling your stocking each Christmas Eve.

A ninth use for wood moldings in your home is as a plinth block. Plinth blocks are placed where the baseboard meets the casing. They add durability and beauty to your moldings.

A final use for wood moldings in your home is as a wainscoting cap. If you decide on a panel option like wainscoting, you need a durable cap to smooth the transition back to the plaster wall. Wood moldings can do this in style.

You can use wood moldings almost anywhere in your home to add durability and value. When you think moldings, think wood.

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Materials and Supplies for Every Type of Home Improvement Project

Whether one is looking to improve their home on the inside, outside or both, Lowes home improvement centers will most likely have everything one needs to complete their project. From plumbing materials to lumber, paint to stylish fixtures, individuals working on home improvement projects will be able to purchase all of their necessary supplies and materials at a Lowes home improvement center.

Knowledgeable Staff

Some individuals know exactly what they are looking to purchase when they walk into a home improvement center, however, other shoppers are a bit unsure as to what they might need to complete a particular home improvement project. At a Lowes home improvement center, the knowledgeable staff is available to answer questions regarding their products and let them know what they may need for certain home improvement projects. This comes in handy for those individuals who may need a little extra help with certain aspects of their shopping trip.

How-To Clinics

Another wonderful aspect of Lowes home improvement centers is that they will often hold how-to clinics regarding various home improvement projects. These may range anywhere from outdoor fountain construction to installing tile throughout ones home. These clinics are not only informative but free as well. What more could a person ask for when looking to learn more about particular home improvement projects?

Books and Magazines

Along with their readily available supplies and informative how-to clinics, Lowes home improvement centers also supply a wide range of books and magazines pertaining to home improvement matters. Whether one is looking for a book relating to gardening or renovating a bathroom, the periodical section at a local Lowes home improvement center is sure to have what each individual is looking for with regard to their home improvement needs.

Wonderful Garden Center

When individuals are looking to spruce up their home via home improvement projects, they may be looking for items that will fix up the outside as well as inside the home. Lowes home improvement centers not only provide items for indoor projects but outdoor ones as well. Lowes has a massive garden center which carries everything from plants to flowers and soil to outdoor fountains and for this reason it is highly desirable when it comes to customers looking to improve their outdoor areas as well.

Lowes home improvement center is a place where one can go to have all of their home improvement needs met. With their friendly and knowledgeable staff and large stock of materials and supplies, consumers are sure to find everything they need for their home improvement endeavors and more.

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With kitchen remodeling, you can really pick and choose what you want to change. Many families decide that they do not actually need to remodel much; things just need to be changed up a little bit. Overhead cabinets are coming out and being traded in for islands, which provide more storage and open up the whole room into the other rooms of the house. Other people want to put an addition on the house to really expand the kitchen and make it bigger and more open. So, kitchen remodeling can be about buying new fixtures and dcor or it can be as extensive as adding more square footage and totally changing the layout of the room.

Kitchen remodeling usually starts with a desire for more space. The reason that many people are taking out bars and overhead cabinets is that they close off the kitchen area and make it feel smaller than it is. By removing these items and putting an appropriate sized island in the kitchen, you open the kitchen up and make it feel bigger, even though the kitchen remodeling isnt all that extensive. Also, taking down old cabinets and bringing in new cabinets will help the newly opened up kitchen look even better, and they dont have to cost all that much. New appliances will top of the kitchen remodeling, and while the actual change isnt all that big it will feel huge!

Extensive kitchen remodeling can be stressful and you might need the help of several professionals. Electricians and plumbers will likely need to be called on if youll be moving electrical or gas lines, as well as plumbing. Getting together with a contractor before you start your kitchen remodeling is a good idea, so that everything can be torn down and put back together in the most functional and efficient manner! Big kitchen remodeling projects may take a little time, effort, and may even be a bit stressful, but in the end it will definitely be worth it when your friends and family can gather comfortably in your kitchen.

Kitchen remodeling is a great way to add value to your home. Islands, open floor plan, stainless steel appliances, high quality tile flooring, recessed lighting, and granite counter tops are all things that you might want to consider for your kitchen remodeling to get the best quality, the most impressive look, and the best return on your investment. Its said that the average kitchen remodeling project costs thirty five thousand dollars, but dont let that figure scare you, because it can cost much less or much more, it just depends on what you are looking to do in your kitchen!

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In fact, you can save at least one-third the cost of new cabinets, and perhaps twice that if you do the work yourself. And you’ll be keeping your current cabinets - which are often more solidly constructed than newer ones. Plus, you can improve their functionality with roll-out shelves, better drawer slides, and other accessories.

1. Choose a Door Type: For traditional face-frame cabinets, choose a door/drawer that will be inset in the frame, that will overlay the frame by 1/2 inch, or that is a cross between the two called a 3/8-in. inset. Largely a matter of appearance, fully inset doors require perfectly square openings and more skill to fit properly. Fully concealed hinges can be used only with the overlay and fully inset types. Doors for frameless cabinets are either inset or overlay.

2. Choose a Door Style: Determine the wood species, profile (such as raised panel, flat panel), and finish (painted, prefinished natural, or unfinished). In most cases if the door you want is available prefinished in a finish that you like, it pays to order prefinished. It saves time and, in most cases, you get a better-looking and more durable finish than one you might brush on. Unfinished components, however, can be modified to match moldings or other unfinished cabinets that may be part of an installation.

3. Choose Hinges: Within the options available for your chosen door style, make sure to consider the opening capacity (ranging from about 100 to 180 degrees) and features such snap-closing versus free-swinging, zero clearance (for roll-out shelves), and adjustability, which ranges from none to three-way (height, side, and depth).

4. Measure for Doors and Drawers: Measure the width and height of every door and drawer opening to within 1/16 inch. Don’t forget the opening that is covered by a false drawer front below your kitchen sink. For single-door openings, add to those dimensions two times the amount of any overlay. When two doors will cover a single opening, add the amount of overlay less 1/16 inch to half the opening width. (The height would be the same as for a single door opening.) For inset doors subtract 1/4 inch from width and height.

5. Calculate Veneer Order: To cover the front of the face frames so they will match your doors, you’ll need about 16 square feet of peel-and-stick veneer for every 10 cabinet doors. Add more as needed for drawer rails in combination door/drawer base units, or stiles and rails for drawer base units. (In this context, rails are the horizontal strips between the drawer and the door below, or between drawers, and stiles are the vertical strips to the sides of the doors and/or drawers.)

6. Measure End Panels: Measure wall and base cabinet end panels, which are covered with the matching plywood or actual door panels. If any cabinets will have glass doors, measure the inside dimensions of the side and back walls and order matching plywood to cover that, too.

7. Make Other Improvements: While you are waiting for your order (typically four weeks or more), tackle any other improvements or needed repairs. You might replace shelves that are warped or water-damaged using plywood (edged with iron-on veneer) that matches the thickness of existing shelves.

Technorati Tags: home, home improvement

Insulating your attic is the number one way to help improve your heating and cooling bills and help make your home more energy efficient. When properly installed, attic insulation can decrease your energy bill by about twenty percent or more per month. In addition, there are many different types of material that can be used for insulating your attic. In most cases, you do not even have to hire a professional to install. The homeowner can do most attic improvements.

When looking at the type of insulation you will want to install in your attic, think about the R-value. The R-value of insulation is the insulation s ability to resist heat flow. The higher the R-value, the more effective it will be to insulate. Insulations materials can vary in thickness. Some insulation averages R-3 while others are as high as R-8 per inch. It is important to remember that over time, any insulation will loose some of its ability to insulate and will reduce in R-value.

There are many reasons to consider replacing or improving attic insulation. For those who have little or no insulation, or who have very old insulation, replacing insulation has benefits. Also, you should consider insulation if you have high energy bills or if you attic or walls have been exposed during remodeling.

Before replacing or adding insulation to your attic you should determine whether or not you have moisture problems. Problems with moisture can become worse with adding insulation. Insulation can trap moisture causing mildew and mold to grow and spread. In addition, when water and moisture collect in the attic, it can cause stains and rot. Before putting in any insulation, it is best to seal all air leaks. This not only helps moisture, but also reduces heating bills by keeping cold air from entering the home.

There are many kinds of insulation that can be added to your attic. Insulation sheets and bats are easy to install. If you have an open attic space, some insulation sheets some may not be easy to install if the joists are not spaced evenly. Also, by applying a second layer of insulation blankets crosswise over the first layer can help seal cracks. This will help reduce heat loss. This can also prevent moisture problems.

Another type of insulation that is good for the attic is loose fill insulation. This is perfect for filling irregular shaped spaces. It also can have more complete coverage than bats. When installing loose fill insulation, it can be blown from a machine or hand poured and bought in a bag. If you like do-it-yourself projects, you can rent machines that will blow the insulation at rental stores. Caution should be used when using a machine to blow in insulation. The settings must be carefully set so that not too much insulation is used. If the insulation is too thick, it can cause settling and may not properly insulate the attic.

There are commonly used types of insulation that can be good options for using in attic spaces. Cellulose insulation is made from ground wood or paper. This type of insulation is often used in attics and usually has additives to prevent mold and resistance to fire. Fiberglass insulation is made of molten glass strands. This type is also fire resistant. Wood shavings used to be commonly used, but are not used much any more, especially in attics. Insulation made of wood shavings can be too heavy for the inside of attics and can promote fungal growth.

When working with insulation in your attic, extreme caution should be used. You should always protect your hands and eyes when applying insulation. Many types of insulation can irritate that eyes, nose and throat. It is always recommended to wear protective gear when using insulation in any part of you home. Adding or replacing insulation in your attic can be a good way to help lower your heating and cooling bill. Professionals can be hired to apply the insulation or many choose to do it themselves.

Technorati Tags: home, home improvement

Track-lighting installation is a very forgiving project. You can attach the track first and install the wiring later if you have easy access to the wiring above the ceiling. Or you can install track lighting in place of an existing light fixture. In either case, the wiring attachments will be hidden by a cover plate.

Typical track-lighting installations can be completed in one day. The installation will probably cost less than $160, but the price will be higher if you hire an electrician.

1. At the breaker box, shut off the power to any circuit you will be using.

2. Determine where you want to install your light, and drill pilot holes into the ceiling joists. Attach the track to the ceiling with wood screws. Use toggle bolts if you can’t screw into the joists.

3. For installations where no previous light existed, feed the wire through the ceiling.

Note: You may want to hire a licensed electrician to wire your light.

4. Use the stud sensor to identify an area between studs in which you can place the light switch. The switch should be at least 2″ away from any stud. Use a measuring tape to mark the placement of the switch so that it will be the same height as the other switches in the room.

5. Use the drywall-mounted electrical box as a template for marking the cutout for the switch.

6. Drill a pilot hole in the corner of the cutout, and use a long screwdriver to check for obstructions. Finish the cutout with a drywall saw.

7. From the attic, locate the area above the wall where you intend to mount the light switch. Use a 1 1/2″ spade bit to drill into the void behind the wall. Wear a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, gloves and a dust mask to avoid irritation from fiberglass insulation.

8. Feed two pieces of electrical cable into the hole from the attic and out through the hole in the wall.

9. Strip the sheathing off the ends of both pieces of electrical cable, and strip 1″ of insulation from the black and white wires.

10. Connect one electrical cable to an existing power supply such as an attic light fixture or other nearby power source. Use the circuit tester to make sure the power is off before you handle bare wires. Connect the bare copper wires with a barrel crimp, and use wire nuts to secure the remaining connections, keeping white wires with white wires and black wires with black wires.

Caution: Some switched fixtures may have confusing wiring arrangements. If you’re unsure which wires supply constant power, test the circuit, or call a licensed electrician.

11. Locate the cable for the light fixture, and attach a junction box to a nearby joist. Thread the light-fixture cable and the remaining electrical cable into the junction box, and splice them together with wire nuts and a barrel crimp. Attach a cover to the junction box.

12. Downstairs, push the other ends of electrical cable through the back of a drywall-mounted electrical box, and secure the box to the wall by tightening the wall-clamp screws.

13. Strip the sheathing and insulation from the wires. Twist the ground wires together with a 5″ piece of ground wire, and secure the connection with a barrel crimp. Connect the white wires together, and secure them with a wire nut.

14. Attach the black wires to the terminals on a single-pole light switch, and attach the remaining ground wire to the green ground screw on the switch.

15. Attach the switch to the electrical box, and attach a cover plate. For multiple track lights, consider using a stack switch.

16. Insert the fixtures into the track so that the three prongs line up properly with the electrical wiring inside the track. Most fixtures simply snap into place.

Note: If you’re installing track lighting over an existing fixture, remove the fixture and disconnect the wires. Then mount the track light, connect the wiring, and insert the light fixtures.

Technorati Tags: home improvement, remodel

Before you do anything, you will need to figure out exactly how much flooring and accessories to buy. Use a room size calculator to help you determine the amounts you will need. If you decide to install your Pergo floor yourself, all of the items you will need for installation will be available for you wherever you buy your floor. This is why Pergo is not just a floor, it’s a complete flooring system. All of the following are available to help make your installation easier:

Pergo Glue (Must be used in order for the Pergo warranty to be valid)

installation Kit - includes spacers and a tapping block to ensure tight joints

Pull bar - helps to ensure a tight fit in difficult to reach spaces

Under-layments - even out minor irregularities in the sub-floor and provide heat and sound insulation

Floor clamps - simplify installation and make a finished floor stronger

Pergo Sealant - secures the gap between the floor and the wall, ensuring maximum moisture resistance

Pergo Putty - mends any damage that might occur to your floor during installation

installation straps - are not required to install Pergo, but they do simplify the process

A few things you should know before you begin installing your Pergo floor. Pergo floors are intended for indoor use only. Pergo must be installed as a floating floor, with sufficient space for movement around the perimeter. Pergo must not be fixed to the sub-floor.

The degree of floor movement in relation to walls, staircases, pipes and other fixed objects must be considered with regard to the local changes in relative humidity and temperature. The expansion distance is 1/4″ in normal climates. This is particularly important at corners, angles and openings such as doorways, archways and the like.

Allow the Pergo products to acclimate in unopened cartons where they will be installed for at least 48 hours before starting the installation. In very dry or very humid climates, allow at least 96 hours (4 days). For acclimation before, during and after the installation at the job site, the relative humidity should be 30-90%. The temperature should be stable and within 15F of the normal operating temperature.

Pergo can be installed above, on or below grade. Pergo planks should be installed over Pergo Underlayment Foam or Whisperwalk. When installing over concrete, a Pergo 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier is always required. Check the sub-floor requirements for more information.

Technorati Tags: home improvement, remodels, home contractor

The first step is to choose wallpaper. Today there are all sorts of wallpapers out there for you to choose. If you are new to wallpaper hanging, you may want to choose a pattern with little or no matching. This will make things easier for you and may save you some money on the amount of paper you need since an intricate match often leads to more paper wastage (and thus more money wastage).

When thinking about choosing wallpaper, you want to think about what sort of room it is being used in and what it might come into contact with. For example, vinyl-coated wallpaper is suitable for a kitchen and bathroom because it has a higher tolerance for grease and moisture. On the other hand a coated fabric covering makes more sense for living rooms and bedrooms because it is more breathable and has a lower moisture tolerance.

You will need to make sure you measure your room carefully so you order the right amount of wallpaper. You don t want to get halfway through your room and then realize you don t have enough. There are online tools that will help you calculate how many rolls you might need or you can consult with someone at your local home or decorating store.

Now that you ve selected your paper, you want to make sure that you have the right tools. You should have a knife and scissors for trimming the paper. You should also have a measuring tape or a ruler. Sponges and a seam roller are really important because they help you remove bubbles from the paper before it dries. A ladder, buckets, seam sealer (or vinyl adhesive) are also useful to have on hand.

Before you hang the wallpaper, you should make sure that your surface is properly prepared. Start by removing outlet and light switch plates. Clean the surface to remove any grease or stains. You should also try to fill any holes and repair imperfections in the wall s surface. All of this preparation will help you in the long run.

You will need to pick a spot to begin hanging the wallpaper. Two things should be taken into consideration when picking this spot: the layout of the room and the pattern of the wallpaper. You want to select a shorter space if possible so any mismatch will be inconspicuous. Usually a door or a window is a good place to start especially a corner behind a door.

Once you ve picked a spot, you ll want to draw something known as a plumb line. This is a straight vertical line that you will line up your first strip of wallpaper with. Making this plumb line will ensure that your paper is straight right from the start.

Now it s time to hang. If you have purchased pre-pasted paper, then you need to activate the paste by dunking it is water. There are special wallpaper trays that will help you with this process and will prevent your paper from becoming creased. If your paper is not pre-pasted then you will need to apply paste and book the strips (fold paste to paste without creasing the paper). It is really important that you not crease the paper at this stage because those creases can be seen when the paper is hung. If you do happen to crease the paper, there is very little you can do to remove those creases.

Next, you hang your first strip. Use the plumb line to ensure that your paper is hanging straight. Use your sponge to remove any air bubbles and ensure that the paper is pressed firmly against the wall. Once it is up, you want to trim the top and bottom of the paper using a razor knife.

After you have this first strip up, you can move on to the next strips. With each piece, you want to make sure that you are sliding it into place so there is no overlap or gap between the two pieces. You also want to watch carefully for matching points. When you have three strips up, you can run over all of the seams with a seam roller, but don t press too hard. This will cause excess glue to seep out and your paper will not stick as well to the wall. You should also have adhesive on hand to put on any spots that are sticking. You can also use this in the future if sections or seams start to lift.

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